Graduating class of master cheesemakers dedicated to their craft

Center for Dairy Research and Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin

Whether they followed in their father or grandfather’s footsteps or learned the cheesemaking business from the ground up, the 28th graduating class of the Wisconsin Cheesemaker® program has one thing in common: their love of cheese and their devotion to the industry.

This year’s class is one of the largest in recent years, with three new and three returning Master cheesemakers, noted the Center for Dairy Research (CDR) and Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin (DFW).

“I want to congratulate both the returning and new Master Cheesemakers,” said Andy Johnson, coordinator of the Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® program. “I am proud and excited to continuing working with this impressive group. The new Masters are a fine addition to the program and will help carry on the tradition of passion and quality cheesemaking that the program embodies.”

To be eligible for the Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® program, cheesemakers must be licensed Wisconsin cheesemakers for at least 10 years. Before applicants are accepted into the program, they are required to complete CDR’s Advanced Cheese Technology, Short Course and one other workshop of their choice.

In addition, applicants undergo a plant visit where they lead a walk-through of their facility and must pass an oral exam. Once they are accepted into the program, participants complete a list of courses and an intensive exam.

Before they can graduate as a Master cheesemaker, the cheeses they are being certified in are graded for flavor, composition and microbial analysis—this is done three times.

All said, it takes about three years to complete, and, in the end, once successful, the cheesemaker earns the honor and respect of becoming a Master cheesemaker as well as the right to use the Master Mark® on their products.

More than 90 cheesemakers have earned the title of Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker in dozens of varieties of cheeses. Many Wisconsin Master Cheesemakers have earned multiple certifications in different cheese types/styles.

New Master Cheesemakers

Charles Henn, Agropur, Weyauwega, Certified Master: Cheddar

Cheese has taken Charles Henn around the world. It all started when, as a student at the University of Wisconsin-River Falls, Henn got a cheesemaking job in the university’s dairy plant.

“I went to college thinking I was going to be a veterinarian. When I first applied to vet schools after my junior year in college, I got denied. My college advisor tried to cheer me up and he told me I’d probably make more money as a cheesemaker than as a vet,” Henn said with a laugh.

As part of the university dairy plant job, an alumnus from China brought Henn and other college cheesemakers to China where they spent three weeks on a Tibetan plateau making Halloumi cheese from Yak’s milk.

“I had a pretty unique college experience and that was all because of cheese,” he said.

After graduating, Henn went to work at Belgioioso where he made cheeses like Mascarpone and Ricotta for more than 10 years. Henn now works at the Agropur plant in Weyauwega where he makes Cheddar. This year, Henn joins the ranks of the Wisconsin Master Cheesemakers with a certification in Cheddar.

“Cheddar’s always been my favorite cheese,” he said. “I enjoy eating curds too, but I really enjoy a good sharp Cheddar.”

Becoming a Master Cheesemaker has been a goal of Henn’s. “I first heard about the Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® program in 2003 when I got my cheesemakers license. I always thought it would be neat to become one.”

“I really enjoyed going to the classes,” Henn said. “I learned a lot going down to CDR. Spending time in class was enjoyable, it was just a really good learning experience.”

Looking ahead, Henn said he would be interested in earning a Master Cheesemaker certification in Feta cheese. The Agropur plant in Weyauwega, where Henn works, makes a lot of Feta.

“I don’t have any experience in Feta, but I told the plant manager I’d be willing to put the time in to become a master in Feta. I never knew how Feta was made or really even ate any before I got here.”

Looking back, it’s probably safe to say that things worked out for the better for Henn. Although he initially hoped to be a veterinarian back when he was in college, he says he likes his career as a cheesemaker.

“I really enjoy the difficulty of cheesemaking,” he said. “There’s a lot of work in finding out how to fix the problems and that’s what I enjoy – the difficulty of it and the variety of issues that you’ll have.”

Ken Kane, Sartori, Plymouth, Certified Master: Romano and Parmesan

It seems to be destiny that Ken Kane became a cheesemaker. He was named after his grandfather who owned a dairy farm and was a cheesemaker in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.

“My grandfather would milk the cows in the morning, bring the milk into the plant and make cheese,” Kane said. “My dad always loved it when my grandfather brought home fresh curd from the plant.”

However, it wasn’t until Kane was a couple of years into his own career at Sartori that his dad told him about his family’s history and legacy in the dairy industry. “It’s a pretty cool experience to bring it full circle, to get his name, and to be a cheesemaker as well,” he said.

Kane started his career in 2005 at the Sartori plant in Plymouth, Wisconsin where he initially worked in food sanitation. Over the years, he said he worked about every job in the plant, eventually landing on cheesemaker.

“I started working with the cheesemakers,” Kane said, “They showed me the ropes and eventually I moved into a cheesemaking role and began my apprenticeship to gain my cheesemakers license.”

Right away, he fell in love with the work. “The creative process of cheesemaking really drew me in,” he said. “I love creating something day in and day out that starts out as a singular product and is completely transformed through the cheesemaking process.”

As soon as he learned about the Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® program, he knew he wanted to be one.

“That was really my true north and everything that I did was about trying to get to that point,” Kane said. “I started to develop different cheeses and broaden my scope of what cheese really was. It was really interesting and motivating to work toward the Master program.”

He added that he was fortunate to have good mentors like Master Cheesemaker Mark Gustafson, “We really get into the art and science of cheesemaking. It is a great challenge every day.”

This year, Kane has achieved his goal of becoming a Master Cheesemaker with certifications in Parmesan and Romano.

“I learned how to make cheese by making Parmesan and Romano cheese,” he said. “So, it was really near and dear to my heart to obtain certifications in those two cheeses.”

Kane said it’s special to be part of the Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker® program because of how the program elevates Wisconsin cheesemaking.

“It really showcases what Wisconsin is all about,” he said. “It’s about our craft and our dedication to the land, our farmers and our product.”

Shawn Sadler, AMPI, Jim Falls, Certified Master: Cheddar and Monterey

Over the course of his 25-year career, Shawn Sadler has gone from literally sweeping the floors to running the place. Sadler, who is currently the Cheese Plant Superintendent at the Associated Milk Producers, Inc. (AMPI) location in Jim Falls, Wisconsin, started working at the plant right out of high school.

“My dad had worked here for most of his career and I thought it seemed like a good place to work,” Sadler said. “I just started working on the floor, doing cleanup and helping with various other jobs.”